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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.